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NEWSBRIEFS
  • San Diego approves tasting rooms
    The San Diego Board of Supervisors approved a new ordinance making it easier for grapegrowers to open tasting rooms and establish small wineries. The ordinance sets up a system allowing property owners in agriculture-zoned areas to establish one of four operations, from growing and producing wine and selling off-site to full wineries. The county now has 58 wineries, many concentrated in Ramona and Fallbrook.
     
  • Stone rolls to Oregon
    Larry Stone, managing director of Francis Ford Coppola’s 20,000-case Rubicon Estate, Rutherford, was named general manager of Evening Land, which makes Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, California’s Sonoma Coast and Santa Rita Hills and in Burgundy. He’ll continue making his own label, 1,000-case Sirita.
     
  • Miller leaves St. Julian
    David Miller, long-time winemaker at 150,000-case St. Julian Winery, Paw Paw, Mich., has left to serve as visiting professor at Michigan State University and start his own winery, White Pine, in Lawton, with his wife, Sandy. Former associate winemaker Nancie Corum was promoted to winemaker at St. Julian.
     
  • Dr. Frank opens re-built tasting room
    Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars, Hammondsport, N.Y., held a grand re-opening party in July for the auxiliary tasting room that was destroyed by an electrical fire in April 2009. The rebuilt tasting room is larger and has more bar space than the original.
     
  • Encore! For Elledge
    Melinda Elledge joined Encore! Glass, Benicia, Calif., bottle supplier, as account manager for Napa and Sonoma counties. Previously, she was with Saverglass.
     
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January 2008 Issue of Wines & Vines
 
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Wines & Vines Special Report

Vintage 2008: North America's growing regions

 
by Wines & Vines
 
 
Alternative text
 
PHOTO: Courtesy of Hermes Vineyards.
 
Usually, our review of the growing season in winegrape-producing areas across the continent is dominated by disastrous weather east of the Rockies. This year California brought the drama: Spring and fall freezes, reduced degree days and smoke-tinged grapes caused by massive and long-lasting wildfires; untimely heat spikes and near-drought conditions drove production down almost everywhere.

Of course, every region had its trials, and almost none brought in crops sufficient to supply demand for local berries. People are experimenting with new varieties and planting in new locations, and many states are supporting their grape and wine industries with grants and promotion.

Our reports come from volunteer local experts. We hope you'll find them useful. If your area was not included and you'd like to contribute next year, please e-mail edit@winesandvines.com, and we'll put you on the list.


California


CLARKSBURG

  • Clarksburg is earning respect within the industry and in the press.
  • April freeze caused some major crop losses.
The year started with a publicity boom, when broker Joseph Ciatti's presentation at the Unified Symposium featured the Clarksburg AVA as the best location for quality and value for vineyard investments in California. In February, several new local growers entered into planting contracts. In March, the Clarksburg Wine Grape Growers and Vintners Association held our best-attended "Grape Day" program to date.

Late season frost damaged winegrape crops across California in April. Local vineyards reported 20% to 60% loss of some varietals. May was cool and dry, causing grapes to develop more slowly than normal.

Our publicity-fest continued during the summer, when Clarksburg was proclaimed a "Grape Growing Hotbed" by the Sacramento Business Journal, and the Sacramento Bee ran "Clarksburg: Back in Time, Tops in Wine," which quoted celebrated wine merchant Darrel Corti. "The best Chenin Blanc in California is made in Clarksburg," Corti said, "and it provides one of the best, if not the best Petite Syrah."

July was a great month weather-wise for the maturing grape crop. Harvest came early for some varietals. An early September heat wave put pressure on ripe grapes and reduced tonnage in some cases.

Harvest continued into October and November; the long harvest season capped a difficult year, with reports of 20% to 40% lower yields for most growers. However, quality was very high, and this vintage is predicted to make excellent wine.

Tim Waits
Clarksburg Wine Grape Growers and Vintners Association

LAKE AND MENDOCINO COUNTIES
  • It was a year of unexpected extremes, from freezing nights to smoke-shrouded days.
  • Yields were down significantly in both North Coast counties, but fruit that came in was of good quality.
The year 2008 was like a James Taylor song, but not as pretty: "Lord knows when the cold wind blows it will turn your head around…I've seen fire, I've seen rain. I've seen sunny days I thought would never end." This was a year of climatic variability that we haven't seen in many vintages.

Winter precipitation was near normal until February, when it drastically tapered off. The skies would cloud up as fronts approached from the Pacific Northwest but delivered only drizzle. Weather was cool overall, and budbreak was about 10 days later than normal. Shoot elongation was slow due to cool, windy weather.

By mid-April, Mendocino and Lake counties were experiencing significant frost. Growers hadn't seen weather like this in three decades; in some vineyards, sprinkler frost protection was needed for nearly 25 nights. Some growers eventually ran out of water.

The worst frost event happened on the night of April 19, when a large Arctic air mass descended on California, accompanied by wind, low humidity and low dew points. Temperatures plummeted after dark, going as low as 22ºF in some areas. Upland vineyards, usually safely above stratified cold air, froze due to the mass of frigid air. Growers who turned on their sprinklers a little late, but well above 32ºF, had damage from low dew points. In the coldest vineyards, damage occurred because of wind deflection of the sprinklers and non-uniform coverage.

Estrelina
 
Hard to believe it's California, but these Riesling vines are in Esterlina Vineyards & Winery in Mendocino County's Cole Valley AVA last spring. Frost hit much of the state again in October.
PHOTO: Steve Sterling
Some vineyards lost all of their shoots and crop. In others, the damage was spottier. Regardless, the cold weather caused significant damage across the region, and total yields are down for both counties by 20% to 30%.

Then the weather turned, and by the first week of May, temperatures were in the high 90ºs. Vineyards began to bloom and poor fruit set resulted in some areas. Cabernet and Merlot seemed to be most affected, but there was also a poor set in Pinot Noir.

Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc seemed least affected overall, and crops were closer to normal. Other whites including Muscats, Viognier and Arneis also had poor sets. Clusters were loose, berry sizes were "pumpkins and peas" (shatter or coulure), and the net effect was a smaller crop overall, with some vineyards well below normal (less than 50% of average yields).

The weather cooled for the rest of May and became windy. Late-flowering vineyards also had poorer set than usual, and this contributed to lower yields, particularly with Pinot Noir vineyards in Anderson Valley. Yields were way off, well below 50%, but fruit that was harvested was quite good. Spa rkling wine production also will be much smaller than usual.

On the evening of June 20, more than 1,000 fires were started by dry lightning storms. Dense smoke covered many regions for days. The fires were finally controlled almost one month later. Smokey flavors were detected in some lots during fermentation, but the problem did not affect all vineyards. Winemakers implemented suggestions from Australian colleagues (who had a lot of experience during their prolonged period of drought and bush fires). The problems are turning out to be minimal. By the time the vintage is completed and enologists employ ultrafiltration, reverse osmosis and other techniques, it is unlikely that smoke flavors other than from toasted oak barrels will be noteworthy in most wines.

Harvest looked like it would happen quickly, and many wineries were crushing by the last week of August. Warm weather probably accelerated fruit ripening, and at first, grapes for sparkling wine, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay were being picked at a frantic pace.

Then the weather cooled, and some wineries were relieved to have plenty of time between the white and red fruit to complete primary fermentations and turn over their tanks to new wine lots. The end of September included a little rain, but just enough to settle the dust and not do any real damage to the fruit.

By October, the weather was pleasant. Oddly, in mid-month, a fairly large cold front descended again from the Arctic and caused considerable frost along the Pacific Coast. Fortunately most vineyards had been picked, and those remaining were close to ripeness. Many winemakers were looking for hang time benefits.

Overnight, frost-affected vineyards went from green canopies to brown. It was necessary to pick the fruit to avoid dehydration. Some growers with water turned on their sprinkler frost protection systems, and saved their vines from frost damage.

Significant rains came on Halloween weekend, and the last of the vineyards were quickly picked. For many growers, it was a bumpy ride, and they were glad to call it a season. Winemakers were mostly happy with the fruit they received. Most lots were well ripened and mature.

Since wine inventories were low and the crop was smaller than usual, this was not a difficult year for most growers to find buyers. When it became obvious that the crop was going to be small, winery buyers moved quickly to ensure they had adequate supplies of fruit.

Sales are becoming sluggish as our economy slows, so wineries are pleased that inventories are fairly well balanced with customer demand. The picture has brightened for some varieties like Chardonnay, which now is in adequate but not excessive supply. Pinot Noir remains scarce, and Pinot Gris is also in short supply. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are a bit sluggish, but moving. Syrah growers have had some problems selling fruit, despite good quality. Everyone is trying to stay optimistic as we close out the year on another difficult vintage.

Glenn McGourty
Winegrowing and plant science advisor UC Cooperative Extension, Mendocino County

LIVERMORE VALLEY

  • Three growers describe a normal year; one predicts a bumper crop for 2009.
  • Deer are one of the valley's major pests.
Harvest was normal, timing-wise. It was a light crop: We made fewer passes in the vineyard due to less thinning. Our yield was about 2.5 tons per acre. We get a Labor Day heat spell every year--sugars tend to jump and people start picking early. We held off and picked around our traditional third week of September for Merlot and third week of October for Cabernet Sauvignon.

Although hazy skies may have affected photosynthesis, we didn't have the dark skies of other areas closer to the summer wildfires. We had a couple of heat spikes over the summer, which I tend to think is normal. Irrigation management helped us ride through them with relative ease.

We got some mildew pressure but managed to keep to a good spray schedule and it was not an issue. Deer were the biggest problem, and they are really big pests. They eat foliage, which will eventually kill the vine and makes it very difficult to ripen the fruit.

I have a feeling we are due for a bumper crop next year. Historically, every four years we get a big crop. Some call it the leap year effect: 1997, 2001 and 2005 were big crop years.

Mark Clarin
Winemaker, Picazo Vineyards

Late winter conditions affected the fruit set, but we did not experience freeze/frost. I attribute this to our maritime influence, east/west configuration. We did not have to frost protect at any time. We experienced less than average rainfall, with a late rain in the growing season. The weather stayed fairly mild in spring, and we really didn't get summer temperatures until late July.

We had a lot of shatter in the vineyard. Our switch to a sorting table this year was a timely move, as shatter had very little effect on the fermentations. The shot berries could have caused a very vegetal quality in the wines. This growing season required lots of adjustments, and the better wines will come from the vintners who reacted quickly.

Spring weather was cooler than normal. Budbreak for Chardonnay was in mid-March; Sauvignon Blanc, end of March; Merlot, early April followed by Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. Verasion: whites in late June; reds, first week of July.

Concannon planted 4 acres of Syrah and 3 acres of Petite Sirah in Livermore; no vineyards were extracted.

Jim Ryan
Estate manager Concannon Vineyards

Grape prices are creeping up, and availability is creeping down. Demand from outside producers is getting larger. Wente planted about 50 acres this year including Graciano, Merlot and Chardonnay.

Karl Wente
Winegrower Wente Vineyards

MERCED COUNTY
  • A smaller crop of good quality brought better prices for growers.
  • Water shortages are predicted next year; well drillers have waiting lists.
Scattered fros t and possibly hot-dry conditions at bloom resulted in a smaller crop of red varieties. One grower reported the Cabernet crop off by 20%. In some blocks the bunch count was normal but the berry size and bunch size were reduced. Needless to say, this made for very good quality.

The light crop enabled the grapes to mature early. Latter blocks took a long time to catch up, which caused a lull at the wineries.

The white varieties had, for the most part, a normal crop with no maturity problems. For the 2008 crop as a whole, it was a long, drawn-out harvest. Because it was so dry, this did not cause any problems with quality. A better price made for good relations in the industry.

This was an easy year in terms of pest and disease problems. No problems from these causes were seen.

Everyone is very worried about water shortages in 2009. Well drillers are charging top dollar and have long waiting lists.

Maxwell Norton
UC Cooperative Extension, Merced County

MONTEREY COUNTY
  • Temperatures were extreme, but yield loss was not excessive.
  • New plantings of Pinot Noir went into the Santa Lucia Highlands.
The 2008 season will be remembered by the impact of temperature extremes. Although not as severely affected as other California growing regions, spring frosts did occur and cause damage on the Central Coast. Increased frost control measures were necessary to prevent damage in the traditionally cold areas.

The greatest temperature impacts occurred during bloom, with poor set in early-blooming vineyards due to cold weather and reduced set for the late bloomers due to high temperatures for Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Warm weather in early September, in combination with lower yields in some vineyards, gave the impression of an early harvest as sugars increased rapidly. A cool-down slowed the maturation process to more typical time frames, with the bulk of the harvest in late September and October, finishing by early November. Fall frosts during early October had the greatest impact in the southern parts of the Salinas Valley, causing premature leaf loss.

Yields were variable among vineyards and varieties. Although vineyard yields were down in some areas, many were at average to slightly below average. The region appears to have been less impacted than others. Chardonnay seemed to be least affected by the yield losses due to temperature extremes.

Early indications from winemakers are that wine quality looks good. There were very few problems with powdery mildew or bunch rot. Fall rains during harvest were lower than predicted, and warm dry conditions after the rain reduced disease pressure. The potential of light brown apple moth and vine mealybug continue to concern growers.

There was some increase in both replanting and new vineyard developments. Several sites in the Santa Lucia Highlands were planted, predominantly to Pinot Noir. Increase in future demand and improvement in prices may extend planting, if profitable contracts are negotiated.

Larry Bettiga
Viticulture advisor, UC Cooperative Extension, Monterey, Santa Cruz and San Benito counties

NAPA COUNTY

  • Scant spring rains made water an issue, both for frost protection and vineyard cooling.
  • Summer fires destroyed some vines, left some with smoke-tainted grapes.
The Napa County spring season brought extraordinary events that echoed right through the season. Spring rainfall was practically nonexistent. In an average year, the weather station in Oakville records approximately 13 inches of rain between Feb. 1 and May 1. In 2008 that station received only 3.7 inches during the same period. The dry spring required many growers to irrigate much earlier than usual.

Next was Napa County's worst frost in at least 20 years. Many growers spent up to 20 nights protecting against frost in late April through early May. Some growers lost the battle and suffered substantial, if not total, shoot loss while others were unaffected.

The frost was followed by unseasonably warm weather. One grower reported that in a single week he used water for both frost protection and later for vineyard cooling.

The last early season event of note was a series of fires that left a few vineyards burned and the whole county covered in smoke for several weeks. At harvest, some fruit was challenged by wineries for having acquired smoke taint.

The remainder of the season was much calmer. Overall yield was down across the county, and spring weather (low soil moisture, frost and bloom heat) was often blamed. Expectations for the vintage are very high.

Pest news included the discovery of the light brown apple moth (LBAM) in Napa and neighboring counties. In an effort to eradicate LBAM, the California Department of Agriculture quarantined a portion of Napa County. Vine mealybug (VMB) was also in the news and in spite of our best efforts to contain VMB, several new Napa County infestations were found. Now that more than 60 infested vineyards have been identified, we concede that VMB is in Napa County to stay. Control, not eradication, will now be our goal.

Mike Anderson
UC Cooperative Extension, Napa County

SAN JOAQUIN COUNTY
  • April frost events are blamed for reduced yields.
  • Prices are up, but not as much as operation costs.
The 2008 season was the second dry year in a row after two wet years. Dry, cold winter conditions affected vine development and crop yields. Rainfall total for the year was about 50% of average. The rain stopped after early February and it remained dry. This was the opposite of 2007, when dry conditions dominated until late winter, followed by sufficient rain in late winter and early spring. Soil moisture was low as spring unfolded. Weed growth was minimal, and all pest pressure was relatively low, whether insect, mite or disease.

Spring frost occurred statewide for the first time since 1972. It appears there were three frost events during the week of April 13. Th e first two left the heart of the Lodi District untouched, with scattered and severe losses in the AVA's outer margins. On the third night, scattered damage also occurred within a 5-mile radius of the central portion. Individual growers suffered severe damage, but as a whole Lodi suffered moderate to light damage. Yields were 15% to 20% below average; some varieties such as Merlot and Syrah were off by 40% to 50%.

Quality was exceptional, a minor consolation. After a couple of brief hot spells during the summer, weather was average.

Harvest began with an about average start date. It began slowly, but ramped up as most varieties seemed to achieve maturity at once. The light crop helped reduce severe scheduling problems, but did cause concern. A slight lull of maturity development in mid-September seemed to slow down everything still in the field.

Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc were only slightly below average in yields, where frost wasn't a factor. Most varieties and blocks were slightly below average, except for Merlot, Syrah and White Zinfandel among others. Cabernet Sauvignon was variable, with some vineyards off as much as 50%, but most sites off 10% to 15%. Harvest was finished by the third week of October.

Scattered leafhopper problems occurred late season. The glassy-winged sharpshooter program has kept the area free of that threat, but vine mealybug continues to spread. Gophers and voles were more of a problem than normal.

Grape prices rose about 15% to 20%, but production costs increased about 30% to 59%. The price range of grapes continues to be large, depending on fruit destination (variety, wine program and winery).

This was generally better than the last two years, but frost and production costs diminished progress. Costs are still well ahead of grower returns on a long-term basis: about $405 to $498 per ton for cash costs that don't include cost of overhead and opportunity of investment. The familiar challenges remain: regulations, labor availability and more consolidation at the producer, wholesale and retail levels.

Paul S. Verdegaal
UC Cooperative Extension Farm advisor

SAN LUIS OBISPO AND SANTA BARBARA COUNTIES
  • Freezes in April and October surprised growers.
  • Some Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot vineyards produced less than 20% of normal yields
The late fall and early winter started with some much-needed rainfall after the extremely dry 2006-07 winter, but the rains petered out in January, leading to another relatively dry winter overall.

The hard April freeze struck lower vineyards in the Santa Rita Hills, Santa Ynez and Los Alamos areas in Santa Barbara County; the Santa Maria area may have been relatively less affected, except in low-lying areas. The freeze also struck vineyards in the eastern inland region of San Luis Obispo County quite heavily, with less damage heading into the hills west of Paso Robles. The coastal Edna and Arroyo Grande valleys were generally less affected.

As in other parts of the state, some long-term vineyards on sites with good air drainage that had never before suffered freeze damage did so in April, indicating the unusual severity of the event.

Some additional limited freezing and cool, windy weather in May, intermixed with several multiple-day heat spikes, led to a long and erratic bloom period with very poor fruit set in many areas. High levels of shatter (coulure) and hens-and-chicks (millerandage) were prevalent in many vineyards that had escaped earlier freeze damage. Unusually severe offshore heat in late June led to very uneven fruit development in some coastal vineyards.

The control of late-season Pacific mite continued to be a challenge in some vineyards.

To top off a tough year, an unusually early and severe mid-October freeze was a surprise in both counties, hitting many low-lying vineyards throughout the region. Temperatures reached the low 20ºs in some inland regions; vineyards on elevated ground were visibly less affected. This freeze caught a number of vineyards with fruit less ripe than desired, but forced growers to pick quickly nonetheless. Ripening was delayed in many areas, even with very low crop levels. Yields of some Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot vineyards were less than 20% of normal. Overall, a tough year for many growers.

Mark Battany
UC Cooperative Extension

SONOMA COUNTY
  • Freezes, heat spikes and a haze of smoke marred the growing season.
  • Water shortages caused some dehydration.
Low spring temperatures caused frost alarms to sound more times in March and April than anyone could remember. Dew points in the high 20ºs were lower than Sonoma growers are accustomed to, and some wind machines and micro sprinklers couldn't be started fast enough when unseasonable winds stopped blowing and the mercury plummeted.

Some vineyards were spared, but most regions had frost damage. Most damage occurred on the mornings of March 31 and April 20-21, when temperatures dropped to low 30ºs and 3- to 18-inch long shoots were killed back to the vine. Shoots re-grew from latent and secondary buds, thus cluster size was small.

The crop--and growers--faced more challenges at bloom and harvest. In mid-May, temperatures reaching or approaching triple-digits brought an early bloom throughout the county. Heat, low humidity and windy conditions caused flower drop and reduced fruit set in some sites.

Healdsburg's high reached 102ºF on May 15 yet didn't make it to 60º nine days later. Erratic temperatures continued through the season. Smoke from fires burning in Mendocino County created a fog-like haze in Sonoma County for three weeks in June and July.

A light crop and heat jump-started harvest in August. The first week of September was memorable with triple-digit highs. Foggy mornings and cool days provided relief for the next two weeks, resulting in a dramatic slowdown and allowing wineries to empty tanks. By that time wineries had received grapes from all varieties and most Pinot Noir and Zinfandel was in.

Rainfall on Oct. 3 inspired sooner-than-later picking decisions, and grapes were nearly all in by month's end. March through May broke the reco rd for the driest spring, with rainfall totaling 0.65 inch. Ephemeral streams dried earlier than last year, and some growers didn't have the amount of water they wanted. Yield was lost just after budbreak due to low temperatures, at bloom because high temperatures caused poor set, and at harvest when many growers lost cluster weight from dehydration. Overall yields for some growers were down as much as 30%, and individual varieties and blocks suffered greater losses. It was a year most growers will not forget.

Rhonda J. Smith
Viticulture farm advisor UC Cooperative Extension

SUISUN VALLEY
  • Yields were reduced 25%-60% on most blocks, due to two consecutive dry winters.
  • Suisun growers are selling more grapes to East Coast wineries.
After early winter rains, hopes for good soil moistures were dashed as no further rain came after February, bringing one of the driest springs experienced in this region and making for two years of very dry soils. Many vineyards commenced irrigation before set.

The area fared well during the frost and freeze events of late March and early April, with just limited damage but a lingering feeling that things were not totally right: Early growth was inconsistent and irregular.

By harvest it was clear we had very light cluster weights due in part to early shatter, small berries and lots of single-cluster canes. On average, most vineyard blocks returned 25% to 60% reduced yields, negating upward price pressure available in the market for the first time in many years. It was further clear that two years of limited rains have put the vines in a very defensive mode.

Fruit quality has been very good nevertheless, and early indications of the vintage are highly promising, with more concentration coming from those smaller berries.

Vineyard planting commenced last fall with several fallow blocks prepared for spring planting. Much of this planting will service new demand created on the East Coast from our participation in Wineries Unlimited, where Suisun Valley has been able to establish significant demand for North Coast fruit. Varietals will focus on Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. This is the first planting activity since 2000.

One new winery, Blue Victorian Vineyards, will open, while several others are preparing bonding documents. Positive changes in the Solano County General Plan affecting agricultural processing (read: "wineries") has opened the door to development of more internal demand.

Next season is likely to produce, at best, an average crop due to the defensive nature of the vines' reaction to pending drought conditions, yet a heavy winter could improve this prospect.

Roger King
President, Suisun Valley Grape Growers Association

NorthWest

BRITISH COLUMBIA
  • Inconsistent weather kept vineyard managers scrambling.
  • Planted vineyard area increased by 1,350 acres for a total of 9,000 overall.
A late start to the season and changeable weather handed British Columbia growers a grape crop that was difficult to manage, but which could produce richly flavored wines.

Vines tended to heavier yields, while degree days fell short of expectations--a combination that led vineyard managers to pay close attention to ensure appropriate flavor development in the crop.

Tyler Galts, operations director at Quails' Gate in Kelowna, expected higher yields from the winery's 190 acres of vines this year when the final tallies are in, despite aggressive thinning.

Oliver-based vineyard consultant Dick Cleave said 2008 was probably the most challenging season he's ever seen. A veteran manager of properties for Andrew Peller Ltd. and other producers, Cleave said that variable weather kept growers scrambling. "Nothing was consistent."

Conditions improved by mid-October, however, and all went smoothly for the final two weeks of the season. But even then, many vineyards along the Black Sage Road were green as the vines wound down more slowly than in previous years.

Cleave believes the vintage will be a good one, although the variable weather may mean that smaller, less-experienced growers will find their grapes moving into lower-priced wines. With tight economic times looming, however, this might not be a bad thing.

B.C. boasts more than 9,000 acres of vines, an increase of more than 1,350 acres from 2007. An acreage survey for the B.C. Wine Institute indicates that new plantings will slow during the next two years.

Current estimates forecast a harvest of approximately 26,357 tons this year--up from 19,777 tons in 2007. However, projections suggest the tally could rise to nearly 42,000 tons by 2012.

Merlot remains the top-planted red grape in the province, at 1,585 acres, while Pinot Gris has overtaken Chardonnay as the most widely planted white variety at 928 acres.

Peter Mitham
Wines & Vines Northwest correspondent

IDAHO
  • Despite a late start, seasonal conditions were almost perfect.
  • Climate change is allowing Idaho to grow varieties that have not succeeded there before.
Overall, the harvest in Idaho was very successful. "We had a beautiful growing season with minimal rainfall," said Dale Jeffers of Skyline Vineyards.

The winter was colder than usual with normal snow cover for a high mountain desert. Budbreak arrived two weeks late, during the third week of April.

With consistent temperatures throughout the season and hardly any days over 100°F, the weather provided ideal grapegrowing conditions. Climate change is really working in our favor. Idaho is now able to grow certain red varieties it never could before, because we now have enough degree days.

Pests are not a big problem here, another advantage to a high mountain desert.

Harvest was two weeks late and yields slight ly higher. We are expecting intense flavors due to the long hang time. Ron Bitner from Bitner Vineyards said, "We foresee an excellent finish to the vintage because of the great acids." The whites are looking exceptionally good. There was a slight cold spell during the middle of harvest, but it didn't seem to disrupt the grapes too much, since we heated right back up and were able to hit the sugar levels for the Cabernet Sauvignon.

Demand for grapes is up in Idaho, especially for the small lots. Vineyard owners are planting new varieties to see what grows well. Skyline Vineyards tore out some Cabernet Sauvignon to plant Grenache and Petit Verdot, due to demand. Next year Skyline plans to plant Tempranillo, Malbec and more Petit Verdot.

Vineyards have been put to bed for the year and are in great shape for spring. We have ample water and are preparing for more demand. Since Idaho received AVA approval for the Snake River Valley in 2007, the response from around the country has been amazing, and the demand for grapes has really gone up. In the past six months we've had six new wineries. Idaho is a hidden gem full of potential. It's going be very exciting to see where it goes.

Moya Shatz
Executive director, Idaho Grape Growers and Wine Producers Commission

OREGON


Alternative text
 
Jim Bernau, founder and president of Willamette Valley Vineyards, checks a load of Dijon Pinot Noir grapes. In 2008, a cool growing season left Oregon with reduced yields, but excellent quality.
  • Budbreak was late, but May brought extreme heat.
  • A cool, extended growing season caused additional thinning and resulted in lower yields.
Oregon's 2008 growing season started late, with budbreak on average 10 days to two weeks behind schedule, followed by a cool growing season and harvest that extended through the end of October. Concerned that the grapes might not reach full ripeness, growers further thinned their crops later in the season.

In the northern part of the state, small berry clusters left to hang on the vine throughout the extended warm spell in October achieved optimal maturity, with full ripeness and intensely concentrated color and flavors. In southern and eastern Oregon, a late season freeze affected some vineyards, but fruit brought in before the freeze shows concentration and mature flavors, and protected vineyards were unharmed. With lower yields, but fully ripe, high quality fruit, 2008 is a harvest that growers and winemakers alike say has the potential to produce extraordinary wines.

A relatively cold late winter evolved into a very cool spring with March and April temperatures across the state anywhere from 2° to 4°F below normal. Budbreak dates ranged from two to over four weeks late. Just as the vines were getting started in full growth, May followed with a 10-day spell of extreme heat with days as much as 20°-25°F above normal.

June through September followed with wider than normal swings between warm and cool periods. In the Willamette Valley, warm weather arrived in early October after a few days of rain showers that did not negatively affect the grapes, allowing the fruit to slowly ripen, mature and develop complex flavors with great acidity.

Some areas in southern Oregon, the Columbia Gorge and eastern Oregon contended with a short frost event Oct. 9-12, but in most instances were able to achieve ripe fruit before the frost--or if unaffected by the frost, benefit from three weeks of warm weather afterwards.

Across the state, lower crop loads and berries showing lower sugar levels but full physiological development have the potential to deliver balanced, complex wines at lower alcohol levels that will age well.

Stephany Boettner
Oregon Wine Board

WASHINGTON

  • Summer was cooler than normal, and mountain snow packs provided ample irrigation.
  • Yields were generally up, while most areas remained frost-free until November.
Washington growers experienced no real issues with the 2007-08 winter, and there was sufficient snow in the mountains for irrigation. Spring weather was cool, with budbreak two weeks later than "normal," starting in mid- to late April. Belated budbreak meant there was minimal frost damage in the spring. Veraison also was late by about one week.

Summer brought average to below average temperatures and precipitation. Pest pressure was low due to dry, mild conditions. The cool growing season resulted in significant acid levels at harvest.

There was some frost damage in mid-October. Frost forced wineries and growers to pick earlier than planned in parts of Walla Walla and Pasco. Frost protection was needed in some places in mid-October, while everything else was frost-free until November.

Harvest was 10-14 days late and slightly above estimates. The late harvest was not a problem because of the dry, frost-free weather in September and October.

We haven't noticed reduced yields, and in some cases, the yields were greater than expected. We had long hang times and full flavors developed. This year many winemakers have an opportunity to produce wines with lower alcohol levels and more textbook balance in chemistry.

Demand for grapes was high, especially Cabernet and Riesling. Prices were up slightly, and availability was good because of the larger-than-expected crop.

A few new acres were planted on speculation, and also some planting contracts, for an approximate 2-3% increase in acreage. New plantings were primarily Riesling, Cabernet and Pinot Gris. Some acreage was pulled out for hop production--approximately 150 acres of Chardonnay, Sémillon and Chenin Blanc were pulled, that we're aware of.

Vicky Scharlau
Executive director, Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers

Central

ARKANSAS
  • State is still recovering from 2007 freeze.
  • Some vinifera proved more hardy than native American varieties.
Although Arkansas winemakers continue to garner favorable reviews for their growing industry, they experienced a setback from the devastating 2007 "Easter Freeze," which destroyed 80%-90% of the grape crop and damaged much of the production wood for 2008. It was the coldest freeze in recorded meteorological history for the Southern states. Before the freeze, Arkansas had weeks of normal warm weather; grapevines had 12 to 24 inches of new growth, but three mornings in a row, temperatures were as low as 19°F in valleys and only slightly warmer on hills. Only Muscadine varieties survived with green leaves and buds. Some older, damaged vineyards that were already marginal were removed and replaced with new varieties.

Some vinifera varieties survived better than many labruscas. Though the freeze did not kill vines, it damaged cordons and production wood, causing the 2008 crop for many varieties to be less than half. As we prune this year, we find much better production wood as the vines recover.

This year, budbreak was two weeks late, with 50% on April 6. Harvest ended on the latest varieties during the first week of October. Cabernet Sauvignon harvest was finished Sept. 15.

Some new wineries are beginning, and more new acreage is being planted. Most new plantings are equipped with drip irrigation, because after mid-June, our summer growing season is typically very dry.

Al Wiedekehr
Arkansas Wine Producers Association

COLORADO

  • Despite a delayed growing season, growers achieved a near-record crop.
  • Riesling is in demand, and accounted for more than half of the new plantings.
The 2008 growing season in Colorado was rather short and may be summed up by one word: delayed. In the main growing areas of Western Colorado, budbreak was about two weeks later than normal. Less-than-average temperatures for the first six weeks after budbreak resulted in late flowering.

Although temperatures were close to average for the remainder of the season, subsequent phenological stages remained two to three weeks delayed. Harvest didn't start until September, and a very early killing frost ended the season Oct. 13. Despite the short season, all but very late varieties were picked at optimum maturity, and winemakers report good to excellent fruit quality. Total grape production will be close to or may exceed the record set in 2006.

Riesling continued to be the variety in hot demand, as state production is well behind winery requirements. Plantings of Riesling account for nearly half the new acreage over the past five years, and it is expected that supply and demand will approach equilibrium in the next year or two.

Grape prices in 2008 remained more or less unchanged. During the past 10 years, Colorado's vineyard area has expanded at about 50-60 acres per year.

European paper wasps, a significant pest (and nuisance to vineyard workers) in the past three seasons, were much less of a problem in 2008. No new pests or diseases were reported.

The potential for grape and wine production continues to increase with the expansion of vineyard area. As always, weather conditions during fall, winter and spring--more than anything else--will ultimately decide the size of Colorado's 2009 crop.

For the latest information on Colorado's vineyards, including area and production statistics, visit colostate.edu/programs/wcrc/viticulture.html, or coloradowine.com for information on our wineries.

Horst Caspari
State viticulturist, Colorado State University

ILLINOIS
  • Most of the state's 1,200 acres of vineyards still produce native American and hybrid grapes.
  • A challenging season put some novice growers to the test.
The Illinois grape industry covers a 450-mile stretch, north-to-south, with climatic growing zones from 4b to 6a. The industry has grown to more than 1,200 acres since 1995, consisting primarily of native American and hybrid grapes. The newer, hardy winegrapes from Cornell, Minnesota and private breeders have become quite popular. Efforts have been made to find growing regions that can successfully grow vinifera grapes. This has paid off with vineyards successfully producing vinifera wines that have won prestigious awards.

The 2008 season was not kind, with ice storms in late winter causing damage in vineyards in south and central Illinois. Cool, cloudy conditions during May and June restrained vine growth, resulting in a late crop.

Consistently wet weather into September led to disease challenges. And a huge Japanese beetle population in some regions put intense pressure on vineyard foliage. Some new growers were struggling with their inexperience as the challenging season led to mistakes in management.

Despite these conditions, a warm, sunny late September/October allowed superb ripening of late grapes in well-tended vineyards. Hopes are growing for a strong vintage. Growers are breathing a sigh of relief and looking hopefully toward a kinder season in 2009.

Wineries continue to grow in volume and numbers. Seven new wineries were opening for 2008, and capacity should exceed 900,000 gallons by the end of the season. Others are scheduled to open in 2009. Winery facilities are concentrated in northern Illinois and deep southern Illinois, with others scattered around the state. Most are strictly retail, though some are exploring wholesale venues and novel marketing products. With a large population to market to, many are still exploring the styles of wines that show the greatest promise. Consumers have responded well to the diversity of wine styles.

Learn more about the Illinois industry at illinoiswine.com.

Bill Shoemaker
University of Illinois

INDIANA
  • La Niña brought a cooler, wetter growing season to much of the state.
  • Demand is strong for Indiana grapes, which fetch about $1,000 per ton.
The 2008 growing season was cooler and wetter than normal across much of the Midwest, a complete opposite of the 2007 season. The 2007-08 winter was dominated by a La Niña event, which brought a warm and wet winter to the Midwest. The coldest temperatures occurred in late January and again in mid-February, and they ranged from single digits in southern Indiana, to minus-10?F in the northern state.

Spring was a bit cool, and budbreak was delayed. No frost injury was reported. Cool conditions continued through summer. Growing degree-day accumulation for the season was about 10% below average. Rainfall was about 125% of normal overall, but some areas had excessive rains and floods in June.

Grape disease pressure was high, with late-season downy mildew prevalent. Fall was warm and dry, leading to excellent fruit quality. Harvest was delayed about two weeks as growers waited for acids to drop and flavors to develop. First frost did not occur until late October, allowing a long hang time for late-ripening varieties.

Demand for Indiana-grown grapes continues to outpace supply, which has led to a steady increase in acreage. Grape prices continue to be very strong across the region, with most varieties selling for about $1,000 per ton.

Indiana currently has 37 wineries, and several more are expected to open in the near future. Wine production surpassed 800,000 gallons in 2007, a 15% increase over 2006. More than 10,000 people are expected to attend the 10th annual Vintage Indiana Wine & Food Festival on June 6, 2009. Welcoming more than 1 million visitors each year, the Indiana wine industry contributes more than $34 million to the Indiana economy and is the No. 1 agri-tourism draw in the state. For additional information about the Indiana wine industry please visit indianawines.org.

Bruce Bordelon, Ph.D.
Viticulture specialist, Purdue University

KANSAS
  • Kansas growers secured a grant to help share costs of planting newly emerging grape varieties.
  • New wineries opened in 2008, and more are expected this year.
Winter 2007-08 was cold and wet, with lots of snow; moisture going into spring was above average in most parts of the state. No early or late freezes affected the grapes; however, some vineyards experienced carry-over effects from the Easter freeze of 2007. Spring weather stayed cool; budbreak was the last week of April into early May, which was about two weeks later than normal. Veraison was also two weeks later than normal.

The summer was wet and cool, causing an increase in black rot and anthracnose. Those conditions carried through summer's end, causing delayed ripening and powdery mildew problems.

Harvest was late, but large, for most vineyards. Demand by Kansas wineries remains high, and the supply of grapes from Kansas vineyards remains less than demand.

One initiative to increase acreage was offered by the Kansas Grape Growers and Winemakers Association. A Specialty Crop Grant was secured to "Enhance Kansas Wines" by providing cost share monies to growers putting in acreages of newly emerging varieties. That program will extend into early 2009.

Several new wineries opened during the summer of '08, with a few more getting ready to open by the first of the year. Several new acres of grapes should begin production in 2009, which will help meet the demand of the Kansas wineries.

Terry Turner
Co-director research & development, Kansas Grape Growers & Wine Makers

MISSOURI
  • Frost damage in some low-lying locations demonstrated the importance of site selection.
  • Despite a larger than expected crop, grape prices seemed to hold firm.
The 2007-08 winter season was relatively mild, with temperatures only dropping below 0°F on a few occasions, primarily in the northern part of the state. There were no reports of new winter injury, although many growers were still dealing with the ramifications of the Easter 2007 freeze. Temperatures remained cooler than normal through most of the late winter and early spring, leading to an approximate two-week delay in budburst. There was a minor frost event statewide as buds were opening and new growth was just commencing; however, damage was slight, limited mainly to low-lying vineyards. Frost protection in Missouri is based primarily on proper site selection, and the effectiveness of this strategy was evident in those cases where frost injury did occur.

The growing season was marked by milder than normal temperatures, and heavy and frequent precipitation throughout most of the season. This led to very high disease pressure, particularly for black rot and downy mildew. Growers kept disease incidence at a relatively low level through appropriate adjustments in spray programs.

The milder temperatures throughout most of the season helped to maintain the two-week lag period in vine and crop development through the harvest season, which began in very late August or early September, rather than mid-August, as is usual. Reduced crops in 2007 due to the Easter freeze led to an increase in vine vigor in 2007, which translated into increased vine size and larger than normal crops in 2008.

Grape demand was very high, especially after the low-cropping year of 2007, but supply was also abundant, leading to a slight excess in supply of certain varieties by late in the harvest season. Winery capacity began to be filled before some late-ripening varieties were completely harvested. By the end of the season, however, most grapes had found a home. Prices are still being gathered, but do not seem to have been significantly affected.

Industry growth continues at a healthy pace, with new vineyards being planted. No vineyards have been reported as going out of business and the only blocks being pulled are being replanted. More wineries continue to open and others are planned. While there are concerns about the economy, most industry personnel remain optimistic about the future.

Andy Allen
Extension associate/viticulturist, Institute for Continental Climate Viticulture and Enology, University of Missouri-Columbia

NEW MEXICO
  • New Mexico has two distinct growing regions; in southern parts, vinifera varieties thrive.
  • Mid-April frost froze trunks and cordons in northern vineyards.
After a record crop in 2007, a very dry winter set the stage for the 2008 season in Southern New Mexico. Parts of Northern New Mexico, meanwhile, received record snowfall. Geographically New Mexico's grape and wine industry is split into northern and southern regions. Small vineyards of 2 to 10 acres and most of the 42 wineries/tasting rooms are located in the northern part of the state, where elevations range from 5,000 to 7,000 feet.

Vinifera varieties like Riesling and Gewürztraminer can survive the harsh winters, but it is mostly hybrid varieties that make up the 15% of grape acreage planted here. At elevations between 3,800 and 5,000 feet in the southern part of the state, vinifera varieties are planted. Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay are the main varieties. Mediterranean varieties (Tempranillo, Aglianico, Montepulciano d' Abruzzo, Sangiovese, Barbera) planted in this region also perform well.

The year 2008 began promisingly, as budbreak started mid-March in the early locations. A prolonged windy season, as well as frost in mid-April damaged some of the largest vineyards in the state. Unusually cold night temperatures in Northern New Mexico froze trunks and cordons, causing them to split.

Below-average summer temperatures delayed development, so harvest could not start in the south until the end of August and continued into October, about two weeks later than normal. Overall yield was down 40% from the 2007 harvest.

New vineyards made up for some of the shortfall in yield. Some growers attributed the excellent grape quality to the slower ripening during the 2008 season.

Looking forward to 2009, all hope to see an increased supply of premium-variety grapes.

Bernd Maier
Extension viticulture specialist, Dept. of Extension Plant Sciences , Las Cruces, N.M.

OHIO

  • Grapes were picked for ice wine in December, providing a more generous yield than the previous year.
  • Tasting room visitors increased; six wine trails promoted special events to attract agri-tourists.
Ohio has three major growing regions: Southern Ohio, the Shores and Islands area adjacent to the western basin of Lake Erie, and the Grand River Valley and Conneaut Creek areas in the northeast corner. Across the state, we had a better than average growing season: Winter was mild with virtually no sub-zero temperatures from December 2007 through February 2008.

Most ice wine grapes came off the vines in December, unlike the 2006-07 season, when conditions for picking came only in mid-January and a significant portion of the ice wine crop was lost. Snow cover came late in the "snowbelt" in the Grand River and Conneaut Creek areas, where there were often 20 or more inches on the ground through mid-March. In the Grand River region, wind machines were used to control several vine-damaging low temperature events.

Most growers came through spring with little frost damage. After a wetter than normal June, summer and fall dried out nicely, and growers reported a better than average crop both in quality and quantity.

Along Lake Erie, tonnage was significantly heavier than anticipated, with yields 10% to 20% higher than average in most vineyards.

Tasting room traffic grew. Wineries in the northeast corner averaged 6,000 to 15,000 visitors each weekend from June through October. Each of the six wine trails conducted successful weekend events to drive shoulder-season visitation.

In southern Ohio, several wineries launched a major local wines program with the Kroger grocery chain. The Giant Eagle grocery chain in central and northern Ohio indicated double-digit growth in sales of Ohio wines. In northeast Ohio, a successful on-premise program continued with the Olive Garden chain, and a new one was launched with Applebee's.

Ohio Wine Producers' Vintage Ohio festival enjoyed record wine sales. Other festivals around the state showed similar patterns, except where weekend rains dampened crowds.

The Ohio Department of Agriculture's Ohio Grape Industries Committee (OGIC), in conjunction with Ohio State's Ohio Agricultural Research Center re-launched the Ohio Quality Wines Program to give recognition Ohio Wines made from Ohio grown fruit. The OGIC also led a multi-month visioning and strategic planning process to establish long- and short-range goals for researchers, wineries and growers.

Two to four new facilities are opening every month. At this writing, more than 120 wineries are open to the public.

Planting of new vineyards continues. Vinifera including Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris are going into the most favorable sites. Limited plantings of Traminette, Norton, a few Swenson varietals and Vidal Blanc continue in locations that cannot support vinifera.

Donniella Winchell
Ohio Wine Producers Association

TEXAS
  • Conditions varied throughout the state: dry in the Hill Country and Gulf Coast, wet in the High Plains.
  • Overall grape production was reduced by half.
The 2008 season began with great promise in Texas; little winter freeze or spring frost injury was experienced across the state. As the season progressed, however, weather conditions had a major effect on the crop.

The Hill Country and Gulf Coast regions experienced one of the driest growing seasons on record, resulting in somewhat depressed yields, but a low incidence in quantity and severity of fungal diseases. In contrast, the Texas High Plains had well-above-average rainfall, punctuated with widespread damaging hailstorms. Significant acreage in far west Texas was also severely hit with hail. Overall grape production in the state is estimated to be down by about 50%.

The Texas harvest began in late June to early July in the Rio Grande Valley, the state's southernmost region. Overall yields in the Gulf Coast were slightly lower than normal in some vineyards, but dry conditions contributed to very good quality of Blanc du Bois and red varieties.

Harvest in the Texas Hill Country began in mid-July and was completed by early September. Quality was above average, with target harvest chemistries being met in most cases. Best quality was reported with Viognier, Syrah, Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. Rainfall associated with Hurricane Ike came after harvest, falling mostly from the Houston area east to Lake Charles, La.

North Texas experienced a very successful harvest of white varieties, predominantly Viognier and Blanc du Bois. Favorable weather contributed to above average fruit quality and good yields. Red varieties did not fare as well. Heavy rains during the critical ripening period slowed fruit maturation, and most red varieties were picked before optimal maturity levels were reached.

Harvest on the High Plains extended an unusually long period, beginning in the third week of July and finishing Oct. 5. Despite the reduced crop, white grape quality was good, but reds ranged from good to fair. Varieties having the most notable quality were Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Tempranillo.

Statewide, prices remained very strong on heavy demand, as the chronic undersupply of grapes was exacerbated by weather-reduced yields. Planting of new acreage continues everywhere, but it is especially strong in the High Plains. A vineyard incentive program sponsored by the Texas Department of Agriculture provided grants for new and expanded vineyard acreage in 2009.

Edward Hellman
Viticulture extension specialist, Contributions by regional viticulture advisors Penny Adams, Teresa Burns, Fran Pontasch, Fritz Westover

East

MARYLAND
  • A normal season ended with cool temperatures, leading to low sugars in late-ripening varieties.
  • Wineries now number 35, up 25% since 2007.
January and February temperatures were in the normal range, with one dip into single-digits. March and April were seasonal with average precipitation, but May was cool with record rainfall.

June and July were mostly warm with little precipitation, and August followed with sunny skies and mild temperatures. Things got worse in September, with rainy, cool weather hitting just when growers were hoping for heat to encourage ripeness. October was cool with moderate precipitation; heat was not forthcoming.

Early crops reached maturity with good numbers and high production. Things slowed down and leveled off through harvest, as late-maturing crops struggled to improve. Sugars were low to moderate, necessitating adjustments, and pHs also were low.

Pest problems were minimal--little bird activity, and Japanese beetles were conspicuous by their absence, as were flea and Asian lady beetles and grape berry moths (although bees were back in business). Deer were of concern in some vineyards.

Dense foliage was again in evidence, with much lateral growth, requiring time-consuming measures to open up canopies. Weed growth was heavy, especially after early fall rains. Late season rots were evident, and something that looked like bunch stem necrosis did a job on many red varieties. Cluster sizes were generous for most varieties. Bunch and shoot thinning were required to avoid over-cropping.

Color was good in most reds, although seeds frequently did not reach the dark brown state of full fruit ripeness. Cabernet Franc seemed to do as well or better than most other varieties, prompting one grower to describe his crop as "being on steroids." Others are putting their money on Lemberger and Malbec.

A few vineyards suffered sporadic hail damage in mid-summer, resulting in some desiccated fruit. There seems to be a trend away from cordon pruning and toward cane pruning. Growers are citing improved balance and consistency of shoot growth.

The Maryland Department of Agriculture eliminated $150,000 in previously allocated grant money for the Winegrape Promotion Fund, which included funds for vineyard installations, labor costs, educational programming and wine marketing and promotion.

The number of Maryland wineries rose to 35, an increase of nearly 25% since last year.

Jack Johnston
Maryland Grape Growers Association

NEW YORK (Finger Lakes)
  • Summer rains gave botrytis and downy mildew a foothold; some growers had to drop clusters.
  • A big crop made for surplus grape tonnage and reduced prices.
After a mild winter, the 2008 growing season in the Finger Lakes region got off to an early start in mid-April, with temperatures in the upper 70°s and 80°s for several days, which resulted in buds on a number of native and early hybrid and vinifera varieties pushing out earlier than normal. Low temperatures, however, fell into the upper 20°s and low 30°s on April 30 and May 1, resulting in significant frost damage primarily to vineyards of native and hybrid varieties in the western portion of the region. Vineyards along the east side of Keuka Lake and on Seneca and Cayuga lakes were spared from significant damage by warmer temperatures.

Temperatures during the bloom to veraison period were close to average overall, but rainfall amounts recorded at Geneva in June, July and August were higher than the long-term monthly averages. Most growers were able to manage the resulting increase in disease pressure, but botrytis and downy mildew got a foothold in some vineyards, forcing growers to drop diseased clusters to maintain fruit quality. A couple of strong hailstorms in mid-July caused significant localized damage, primarily around Keuka Lake.

Drier conditions arrived in September and prevailed through much of harvest. Tonnage for most varieties was above average, but winemakers are very pleased with the quality of this year's crop.

Brix levels and acidity were in ranges that are typical for the
region, with excellent flavors across the board, particularly in aromatic white varieties. A larger than normal crop and reduced purchases by regional buyers this year resulted in a surplus of grapes in the region. As a result, prices for all varietal categories were either flat or lower than last year, except for the major native varieties (e.g., Concord, Catawba, Niagara), the price for which increased slightly. We don't know at this point if the surplus is a one-year phenomenon or not.

Hans Walter-Peterson
Viticulture extension specialist, Finger Lakes Grape Program, Cornell University

NEW YORK (Long Island)
  • Thunderstorms damaged a few exposed berries.
  • September tropical systems brought a slight increase in berry size.
The 2008 season on Long Island began with a hard frost in early May. Vines were in various stages of budswell. Losses were confined to spots with poor air drainage.

Periodic thunderstorms in early summer were both unusual and visually spectacular. This accelerated shoot growth so that most played catch-up with canopy management practices. The thunderstorms were punctuated by 10-14 day periods of hot, sunny, bone-dry weather.

In early August, pea-sized hail fell for a long two minutes on North Fork vineyards--alarming as it is uncommon. This led to small slices in an occasional exposed berry, though the VSP system was relatively effective in protecting fruit. In September, several tropical systems blew through. Despite dire predictions from forecasters, the storms did not lead to disaster but rather a slight increase in berry size.

In early August, the industry celebrated the beginning of ripening with The Art of Balance: Cool Climate/Maritime Wines in a Global Context. This educational symposium and celebration of aromatic white wines featured local, national and international speakers and their wonderful wines. (See winesandvines.com Headlines, Aug. 11, for details.)

Harvest began about the third week of September. Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc and other aromatic whites displayed intense fruit flavors that were nicely balanced with acidity. Merlot for rosé was harvested in early October, then continued through the rest of the month.

The long harvest season for Merlot seemed more pronounced this year, a reflection of vine age, clone/rootstock, crop load, soil type and wildlife pressure. Where blocks were profoundly impacted by wildlife, resulting cluster rot forced more intensive fruit sorting.

Attention to detail in the vineyard paid off this season. Winemakers have been pleased with the progression of fermentations, the wonderful aromatic qualities of both whites and reds. Overall the industry is optimistic about the 2008 harvest.

Alice Wise
Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County

ONTARIO
  • Though pest pressures were high, multi-colored Asia lady beetle (MALB) was not present at harvest.
  • New plantings mean that next year may bring a record winegrape crop.
The winter of 2007-08 was relatively kind with minimal bud injury. Ontario now has more than 500 wind machines across the province to help mitigate winter freeze temperatures and for frost protection in spring and fall. A research project will help optimize timing and use of wind machines. Ice wine harvest was timely and snowfall levels were around normal.

A cool, damp spring delayed vine development in most areas. Some minor frost episodes in May did not injure bearing vines. Sucker growth and some new vines were injured but resumed growth. Bloom occurred later than normal and lasted approximately 7 to 10 days longer due to prolonged cool and damp conditions. Cooler-than-usual summer temperatures delayed veraison about 14 days from 10-year average.

The Niagara Peninsula and eastern Ontario had higher-than-normal precipitation. Southwestern Ontario had normal to slightly drier conditions. Hailstorms in different parts of Niagara occurred for an unusually long period, from June through early September. Pest pressures were high from powdery mildew, grape berry moth, botrytis bunch rot and an increasing incidence of sour rot close to harvest. Japanese beetle is beginning to spread; injury to date is minimal. For the first time in several years, MALB was not detected at harvest.

Harvest on all cultivars was two to three weeks later than usual. Damaged clusters were dropped prior to harvest on many cultivars. High moisture during season brought large berries and tight clusters.

Negotiated prices were increased slightly in 2008. Winery demand was static and growers without contracts were left with some unsold fruit. (For more, see page TK, and winesandvines.com Headlines, Nov. 6.)

New vineyards continue to be planted; a number of young vineyards have yet to reach full production. Most labrusca vineyards are being removed and/or replanted; vinifera continue to be planted. New wineries in the under-5,000-case category have developed. Based on current vine health and plantings, 2009 could be a potential record harvest.

Kevin W. Ker, Ph.D., P.Ag.
Research associate, Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute at Brock University, St. Catharines, Ontario
 
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